Ingredients

• 1 ^1/2 pounds shoulder of veal, cut into 2-inch pieces
• 1 ^1/2 pounds fresh pig's knuckles, cracked with a cleaver
• 1 large onion, unpeeled
• 2 large carrots, scraped and cut crosswise into 1/8-inch-thick rounds
• 3 quarts cold water
• 4 whole black peppercorns
• 5 bay leaves
• 6 tablespoons salt
• 7 teaspoons finely chopped garlic

Directions

• In a heavy 4- to 6-quart casserole dish, combine the veal, pig's knuckles, onion, carrot, and water and bring to a boil over high heat, meanwhile skimming the foam and scum from the surface as it rises to the top. Then add the whole peppercorns and bay leaves, reduce heat to low, and simmer, partially covered, for about 3 hours, or until the veal is tender enough to be pierced easily with a fork.
• With slotted spatula, transfer the veal and pig's knuckles to a plate. Strain the cooking stock in the casserole through a fine sieve set over a large bowl, and let it rest for about 10 minutes. Then with a large spoon, skim off and discard the entire surface fat. Pour the stock into a small pan and boil it briskly, uncovered, until it has cooked down to 4 cups.
• When the veal and pig's knuckles are cool enough to handle, trim off the fat with a small knife and cut the meat away from the bones. Discard the bones and cut the meat into 1/4-inch-wide shreds.
• Arrange the carrot slices in concentric circles in the bottom of a 2-quart charlotte or a similar mold at least 3 inches deep. A teaspoon at a time, sprinkle the carrots evenly with the stock, and continue adding the stock by teaspoons until the carrots are half submerged but not floating in the liquid. Carefully place the mold in the refrigerator without dislodging the design and chill for at least 1 hour, or until the stock has firmly jelled.
• By this time, the remaining stock should be cool. Stir in the meat, salt, and garlic, and taste for seasoning. Then pour the entire mixture into the chilled mold. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or until the stock is firm.
• To remove from its mold, run a knife around the inside edges of the jellied veal. Dip the bottom of the mold briefly in hot water, then invert a flat serving dish on top.
• Holding the mold and plate firmly together, turn them over. The jellied veal should slide out easily. Traditionally, sult is served as a first course or on the zakuska table. This dish is very close to Russian holodetz, where slices of pork with its skin replace the veal.

Yields: 6 to 8 servings.